triumphgal

This morning began hideously early having woken up or at least bothered to look at the clock every hour through the night. I have a sore throat which is usually the first sign of exhaustion for me. I managed to get everything packed and brought down to the lobby as we were only taking overnight bags and day packs and leaving the rest in storage. After a cup of coca tea which is in every lobby and is good for preventing altitude sickness, I boarded the bus at 5:30 with the rest of the gang and we drove to the train station. It took about 1.5 hours I think and once there we showed our passports and tickets and headed down to the platform waiting room. Just time for a quick coffee and we were boarding. 

The gringo train is very fancy with decorative walls, big comfy seats with drop down trays, windows in the ceiling, bar service, snacks and souvenirs. It cost 50 Sols. I saw the local train go by and as Nury says ´it just has seats´but it also only costs 4 sols I think she said. Dave graciously gave me his window seat and we had a great journey through the jungle, rapidly gaining altitude and enjoying the spectacular scenery. There were ice capped mountains and incredible plants, including… Broom! Yep, the scourge of Salt Spring grows in the Andes Mountains. After enjoying coca tea and a muffin I purchased a nice daytimer with pictures of Machu Picchu in it and a black bandana with white writing on it showing a map of the area (this will come into play later).

The excitement was building and we finally arrived at our destination, Aguas Calientes and walked up to our hotel Intipunku Inn. As we were so early only one room was ready, Ruth´s, so we all piled into it with our gear, swapped what clothes and items we need just for the day and Nury lead us to the bus station. We bought our tickets and got into what seemed an impossibly long line but it is a well oiled machine and within minutes we were all situated and ready to roll. 

I sat at the very back and a Peruvian man and two young ladies sat beside me. Although we couldn´t speak the same language we managed to have a bit of a conversation about my Peru tattoo but I overheard them discussing my Saudades one. I think it made them wonder as it is Portuguese.

Once we got off the bus I was beside myself with excitement until I realized that in all the rush I had left my passport back at the hotel. We needed it for entry. I was shaking and had tears welling up when I approached the woman of authority and explained what had happened and asked her if I could please use my drivers license. She nodded yes, stamped my ticket and let me through, phew!

We had decided today was a good day to go to the places that are further away as tomorrow is a guided tour. We started towards the Sun Gate with little knowledge of how far up and away it really was. We stopped at the first level to take pictures of each other upon first site of Machu Picchu and started up. Colin, Wendy and I were on our way and weren´t sure if the others were going to follow but I knew I had to get to the spot all the post cards are taken from.

We have done a lot of stairs in the last week but this was the worst yet. It was 10:45 when we set off from the bus and with rest stops we made it to the top by 12:05 pm. Along the way we took many pictures, chatted with a few people and met two guys Mike and Andy (at least that´s what I remember they were named) from the states. They were great and we all took each others pictures with Mike giving me a ribbing for being a Ducks fan as he is all for Flyers. They walked the rest of the way up with Colin and Wendy. By that point my hips were really starting to hurt. You see they are not really stairs most of the way but uneven rocks with some big step ups and some sketchy close to the edge ones. I lagged behind taking breaks in the shade when I could and drank lots of Powerade. I was not amused when two ladies with a parasol strolled down past me followed by a group of lovely older Japanese ladies in their nice clothes and shoes. We all had a giggle together over my exaggerated shock at their togetherness (and nice shoes). These incidents of course motivated me further to get going. At one point the 4 ahead waited for me and asked how I was doing. I believe my response was Í am dragging these extra 45 pounds up this damn mountain if it kills me…….. ´(I better have lost a couple of those today too!!)

When I reached the top Colin was waiting to take a picture and we made the rounds making sure we documented the accomplishment well. This spot is the end of the Inca Trail and I must say it looked like a walk in the park from our perspective compared to what we had just done. But of course I do not envy them what they have gone through while we have played. While cooling down at the top I took off my new bandana (told you it would factor later) and Colin and Wendy held it while I poured some water into it to cool down. It became white blotchy on one side and we thought maybe it was Wendys lotion so I just rolled it up and tied it on.

We began our way back down when suddenly around the corner came Laureen, legbrace, walking sticks and all. She was supposed to have been doing the Inca Trail with her husband Craig but 6 months ago seriously injured her leg skiing. She arrived on crutches, switched to her leg brace and then got walking sticks. And there she was nearing the top! I walked back up with her to take her picture and found out Dave was with her but had gone back down to where she had forgotten her water bottle! What a gentleman. After the pictures I continued on my way down intending to catch up with Colin and Wendy as we were planning to go to the Incan Bridge. The next pair around the corner were Carol Ann and Celia, neither of whom I thought would make that trek. I was so excited for all of us to do something so big especially for people who do not go to the gym!

As I continued down I was joined by  Mike and Andy. They were going to hustle down as they were out of water so I shared mine with them and we meandered down chatting. Turns out they were both pretty interesting. Mike is paramilitary and studying, working, interested  in international relations. Andy is military and rides a Triumph Bonnieville, and his Dad was a NAUI Master Diver too! I said ´don´t tell me you grew up in a houseboat too´and we had a good laugh. (he didn´t)

We parted with hearty goodbyes as I caught up with Colin and Wendy as they were off to do manly things. At that point I decided I did not want to end up with sun stroke and we really didn´t have enough water for three of us so I gave my water to Colin to fill their bottle and they headed up to the Incan Bridge. I wandered around by the Guard Shack to find a spot in the shade along a wall looking out over the green valley with MP around the corner. Along the wall to my right was a family of grandparents, parents and two boys, a toddler and a three or four year old. I had two sheets of boys stickers left in my purse and offered them to them. The older one took them but the younger was shy until Mama said Si! After that as I sat there the little one kept peaking at me and flirting. He would try to get over my way to be herded back by the family. At one point the grandparents sent the older one over with a coffee candy. I said Gracias and he ran away. After a bit I decided to go wandering when I heard a commotion behind me and the mom was calling Senora! The little one was making noise and running after me, he looked so sad that I was leaving. I waved to him and the mama had him blow me a kiss. Sooooo cute!

I wandered up and took some more pictures and then started wending my way down. I came around a corner and there was the family. I waved and as I walked away the little guy began keening! Next when I caught up with them the little guy was on moms shoulders and as we walked along she introduced herself as Julia, little one as Francesco and the older as Alonzo. They are from Peru and I told her I was from Canada and she asked ´Can we take picture my friend?´Her husband took a picture of us all together and then he gave me a shiny gold coin and managed to explain it was a 1 Sol, the 2013 Neuvo Sol. It was for me. So funny as most places you pay the locals if you take their pictures and here I was the one getting paid. I will keep it as a remembery.

I wandered around randomly taking view shots for people so they could both be in it. It was fun. Then I found a quiet spot in the shade with an amazing view across the field and just relaxed and enjoyed the whole reality that I was here, with my friends, making memories. I spotted Wendy out of the corner of my eye in her bright orange and we sat for a bit in the shade and then decided to make our way down to the meeting place although we would be early, we were ready for food and water. When we got down Celia was there, followed shortly by Laureen who had sadly managed to not recover her water bottle and had now lost her sunglasses! Along came Carol Ann and while we waited for Dave, Wendy bought a beautiful necklace and I bought a weatherproof thermal jacket made in Urubambo with Machu Picchu embroidered on it.

The trip down was nice as I sat beside a man from Brisbane and we chatted about all sorts of things including his thought that I should quit taking the altitude sickness pills as I was probably already acclimatized and still taking them was probably what was causing the tingling again as I came down the mountain. He said stopping helped his wife. 

We trudged slowly back up to our hotel and Nury was so excited to see us and hear about our day. She gave us options and we decided to let her lead us to a good place to eat. After a quick shower we headed out. (Oh, here comes the bandana again! I took it in the shower with me to wash the lotion off but it seems it is actually running the letters off it. I will take it back when we are on the train tomorrow.) The funniest thing was seeing two wee children, a girl and a boy racing down the sidewalk, sliding on flattened 4 Litre pop bottles. Ingenuity and happiness. We ended up at the Indio Felize which was so good. It had a combo three course meal for 59.60 sols and I had tomato soup with mozerella cheese, Ginger Chicken and an Orange Pie with ice cream that was delish. They serve all the main course parts seperately and then bring platters of veg, etc just like at home, so good. All over the walls were business cards, right up to and on the rafters. Over my head on a pole was a Canadian flag sticking out and the Senorita stapled my card right under it! I had such a  great chat with Nury and learned that Peruvian men may be too macho for me. That is why you do not see women riding motorcycles and why they think it is amazing that I do. I would love to rent a bike here (you can) and just ride around town to turn a few heads and educate the masses that women ride too!!

By now most of us were beginning to fall asleep practically at the table so we headed back up to the Hotel. Yes this is one of the places where your mother actually could have walked a mile to school up hill in both directions. 

I have now uploaded my pictures, checked my email and am ready to tuck this weary body and scratchy throat into bed for tomorrow we have a guided tour and I can´t wait.

   Thank you for sharing this journey with me. I wish you could all find your happy place on the planet as this seems to be one for me.

MB in Aguas Calientés

09.22.13