After a pretty good sleep we once again got ready, packed all our belongings and trudged down to the lobby to leave by 555 for the restaurant that was storing our bags while we spent more time on the mountain. I managed to barely get down half a small cup of coffee and we were off into the grey day. What a change from yesterdays beauty and heat. I took twice as long to get ready as my throat was so sore and due to yesterdays water shortage brought along 2 water bottles. Funny thing was only ended up drinking half of one.
We bussed and were on site by 7. The fog was thick and rain was eminent. I was so very impressed with Ruth who had stayed in the village yesterday but made her way up the slippery stone steps with her walking sticks and mostly the wonderful Carol Ann watching out for her. We met our tour guide and his name was very German although he was very Peruvian, Wagner. (sounds like Vaugner). One of the first things he shared was that someone had died on site while we were there yesterday. A man in his 60s who supposedly knew he had a bad heart had an attack. What a place to go!
Wagner sure knew the details of the site, especially interesting to me was the info about building and constellations. The Incans actually used footings and walls below the surface with compacted layers of gravel, dirt and sand inside to absorb the impact of earthquakes!
There is a strangely shaped room sort of like a conch shell when looking down on it with a big rock that has been carved nearly flat in the centre. There are three windows and when the sun is on the date of the summer solstice it shines at 720 in the morning through the first window directly onto the end of the curve. When the sun is on the date of the winter solstice at 630 (all times may be inaccurate but close based on my memory) in the morning it shines through the third window directly onto the end of the curve. This makes a 46.9 degree angle which when split in half is 23.45. This is where the third window is and is the tilt of the earths axis!
While were standing listening to the above explanation, the rain started and soon it was drenching. It was amusing when Wendy smartly offered to hold Wagners umbrella for two. A few of us were wearing rain jackets (I was in my Stormtech) and the others donned ponchos. Carol Ann found herself under the umbrella at one point as she seemed to be the least protected. Man, can it rain here! I also discovered my Stormtech does not actually protect completely from heavy rain. When we saw the temple of the Condor I realized there was an interesting habit of the guides. If they didn’t really agree with the legend they would mention someone needed to be on Coco leaves to see it. We continued on the tour for the rest of the hour and then suddenly he was done and the rest of us sort of split off in different directions. Colin, Wendy and I headed up to the ‘lookout’ above the Temples Area and took a bunch more pictures. The wind was really blowing up there and it is your responsibility to stay away from the edges. There are very few handrails, etc at all here and a lot of freedom to poke around. There are little roped off areas though and the Guardians blow their whistles and come running when they see someone where they shouldn’t be.
It was kind of strange to look around today as everywhere there were lines of colourful ponchos. It was far busier in the crazy rain than it was yesterday which was free for locals of the Cusco area and sunny!
At one point I lost track of Colin and Wendy and when I came to a T intersection between stone walls the stairs went up to an arrow pointing left and also down to an arrow pointing left. I didn’t know which way but there was a Guardian standing there so I said ‘Mi Amigo?’ and he replied “Si Senora?” to which I stumbled along with ”Hombre y … woman, blond” and pointed at my hair and then up the stairs and then down the stairs and shrugged at which point he avidly said, ”Si, Senora” and pointed down so I headed down. I finally caught up with them a while later as they saw my hat bobbing along below them. Nicely played, Senor. I however get the last laugh as I was alone in a long walkway between buildings with Huayna Picchu looming behind me and got some great selfies.
It was also in the ”çommoners” area that I realized what the roller type rock projections off the ends of the buildings were. They were to lash down the thatch roofs to. Very smart people, as we heard so many times, don’t just look, think.
I took the time to have Carol Ann take my picture standing holding my BC Lions towel and then my Anaheim Ducks Flag. I tweeted the pics and had a prompt reply from Lions that ”The Pride is everywhere. Awesome.” I also sent one that I staged with the towel in one of the offering/storage windows. Maybe sacreligious but amusing none the less.
As I was walking down the path towards the outside of the park and the banos a woman passed me and I recognized her coat and purse right away. It was Tammie, our Aussie! We had a great hug on the trail and she walked down with me where we had our passports stamped and soon after Colin and Wendy showed up and we all rushed for the bus down as we were soaked and cold and hungry. Tammie couldn’t find her ticket in time to board so we waited at the bottom for her and she was also meeting at the same restaurant as us to connect with her group.
When we arrived there Celia was already warm and enjoying her breakie and a book. Nury was so happy to see me, she is a special lady and really makes me smile. We ordered coffee with Baileys to warm up. Who cared that it was only 9 am at home! We had survived the rain on Machu Picchu. The rest of our Canadian group showed up and we all ate and then decided to go check out the market. I didn’t buy anything for several reasons. Suitcase space, feeling like sleeping rather than bartering because of head cold I have managed to get due to exhaustion probably, and the fact that the bank machine here won’t take my card. I only have $63 US which I am told no one will take as they are not perfect and 27 Sols. I did see a sign for stamps in a market stall and bought a postcard and stamp, borrowed a pen and wrote myself a note and sent it home. Wonder how long it will take? That was 7 Sols.
I arrived back at the restaurant to find most of our Incan Trail trekkers were back. There was much hugging as it was so great to see them safe and back with us. There were so many questions in both directions and everyone was so tired but happy. I heard that Jim and Lynda were the rock stars, getting everywhere way ahead of everyone, that little Ruth was a real trooper and that everyone had worried about poor Colleen as the altitude had taken a real toll on her. Once they were all fed too we gathered our belongings to head for the train. While waiting outside I shot a video of a band playing down beside the tracks and when they were done the lead singer came right over to sell me a CD. I ended up giving him my last 20 but really did love the music so hope it is good. As I walked away I heard him say something about the Canada Senorita. Nice.
We dragged our butts back up the hill to the train and all boarded and got settled. This was the trekkers first train experience and it was fun for us to feel like the old hands. Nury talked to the porter about the bandana and he said only the supervisor could do anything and as it happens, there was nothing they would do which did not impress Nury much but hey, buyer beware. I thought I would sleep but that seems illusive.
We finally arrived at Ollantaytambo where there was some scrambling to get off as the bags were at opposite ends of the car but finally we were all together and decided it would be better to have a pit stop a half hour away at the hotel we previously stayed at. That was good as the banos there are very clean and there is paper!
After that, back on the bus for some nice conversations about their trip and them asking us our recommendations for things to do during the free day tomorrow. The sky began to appear very ominous so the driver pulled over to put a tarp on top of all our bags on the roof.
Unfortunately because of the bags on the roof we couldn’t risk the driver getting a ticket by stopping in front of the hotel. There is little to no parking in Cusco due to everything being built on or around Inca walls which are protected. We had to stop a block or so down the street, unload and walk up. There was much moaning as most just wanted to get to the shower and some rest. The poor trekkers hadn’t seen a shower or real bed since Friday morning.
Back at the nest, CA and I got our old wee room and gathered our clothes as the laundry lady was coming again. I wandered down to the lobby to wait for her and then planned to go find an ATM when CA offered to take my ‘bad’ $US across the street and see if she could change them. As it happens she was able which was a relief to get dinner tonight and deal with the ATM tomorrow. Ruth (the older one) mentioned that she had run out of Altitude pills and was feeling the effects. I as it happened had at least 6 days worth left so I ran up to get them and when I returned the ever aware and loving Celia noticed my stuffiness and offered me some Breath Right tea. I went up to her room and was blown away as she had what she called ‘the party room’. It had three beds and more than enough room and she offered to switch rooms with us as long as our shower had good pressure, which it did. As we were moving bags etc, I told her that was very Canadian of her and we had a good laugh as she is the one who thinks Canadians are the nicest people in the world. oh and by the way, it’s room 213….. don’t you love a lot of small events that all tie together.
It was very nice for us to be able to spread out a bit for the two nights we are here as it has been a bit cramped. I will admit it has been a little tough as I am used to a lot of alone time. I do believe I have made a bond with these people though.
CA & I, Jim & Lynda, and Craig & Laureen all headed out to Jack’s Cafe for dinner. It was a nice night but my new jacket was necessary. When we arrived I got a big smile of recognition from Noah and I told him we had brought the Inca Trail hikers with us and he was happy they survived. He also mentioned he couldn’t find me on Facebook. There was not enough room for all 6 of us so we grouped around a small table and had a look at the menus until he was able to push two together for us. We ordered and chatted and Noah hooked me up to his cell wifi so I could find him on Fb. It was really nice to talk to three hikers and find out what they thought and to know they never once thought they had made a mistake, no matter how hard it got. I think Lynda has relaxed a lot, as I suspect there was a fear of getting sick or worse before the hike and now she can enjoy. They all look so satisfied, and happy. What a pleasure to be witness to their accomplishment.
We paid our tab and got up to leave and I got a big hug and kiss on the cheek from the cutie server which quite caught me off guard. Laureen got a chuckle out of my collection of people this trip. On the walk back there were jokes about others getting tattoos, etc and CA stopped to make an incredile deal with a street vendor for 3 reversable toques.
It’s funny, this blogging is taking a lot of time at the end of my day and yet it is so enjoyable to relive it and to make a permanent record of something that is so brainscarring for me. And, hey, no alarm clock tomorrow!!!
I am sure there are moments over the past 10 days that will come back to me but for now, adieu
MB in Tampu Hotel, Cusco
09.23.13
triumphgal 