What a day! Up and ready to roll by 7:40 am. I feel so much better it´s a miracle. I did start off feeling as I had when suffering from pneumonia but I am sure that was the altitude combined with the lack of oxygen due to the stuffed up head and chest. I had purchased postcards for everyone last night. The idea is to each put our contact info on them so everyone has them all. I gave them out at breakfast to get the job done as our time together is lessening. Nury informed us that the demonstrations have escalated in Cusco and it was good we left when we did, also that Peru Rail will be walking out in solidarity tomorrow. So glad we got to Machu Picchu when we did!
We headed outside to find that our rides to the dock were two seater Tuk-Tuks, man powered bicycles with us in seats on the front. It was thrilling and so funny as we raced through the streets. It was reminicent of The Amazing Race. I took several videos including one of a near collision in front of Celia and I. All too soon the ride was over and we arrived at the wharf to meet our guide, Percy. (He said his English name was because his father watched too much TV).
We boarded our speed boat with another small group and totalled 33 in all. It was a beautiful morning on Lake Titicaca and we were informed it had gotten down to -2 celius in Puno last night.
Percy was a fountain of facts all day. Here are a few I made note of:
°Titi = Puma, Caca = Grey. This is said titicawcaw, if not it means Puma poop and the locals will laugh at you
°If you need to drink 1 litre of water a day normally then you need 3 at this altitude. (it is the first time I have had dry lips all trip)
°The lake is 165 Km long and 60 Km across at its widest
°Trout was introduced from Canada in the 50s and is now a main staple in the area.
°Jacques Yves Cousteau (my hero when I was a pre-teen) was here for several expeditions. He brought his sub and found giant frogs living 15-20 meters under the water and they never rise to the surface. These are sacred animals. He also found ruins in the lake which led to rumours of Atlantis but is more likely due to the changing lake levels over the years.
°Puno population: 6% in tourism industry, 5% smugglers of clothing, food and technology from Bolivia, 2% miners, 2% alpaca farmers
°Juliaca population: 80% smugglers, that is why it is so run down, no taxes are paid.
While on our way to Taquile I climbed onto the roof with a few others to enjoy the beautiful crossing. While sitting there I had an opportunity to have a nice chat with Craig. We were talking about the bond in this group of ours and that he and I were opposites as he saw me able to make friends in 5 minutes while it took him a agoiod deal longer. I am just grateful to have made these friends from four countries. Our trip today was actually very special, it is the second time only the G Adventures has done this itinerary. We were able to visit Taquile Island (named after the Spaniard who originally owned it) via the back door so to speak. Normalloy we would have been brought to the main town centre and had to climb over 500 steps to find ourselves among hundreds of tourists. Our small froup was lead up a hill to a small farm community where we were welcomed into the courtyard with a polite handshake by the lovely 4 year old Laura and her 21 year old Mother, with her little sister Luna peeking at us.
We had been told much about this island. It is solar powered (40% have satellite dishes), the original inhabitants were only allowed to marry on island until that became a genetic problem and now a man can take an off island woman for a wife with no problem but for a woman to take an off island man, he must be able to knit. In this community the women weave and the men knit. In order to win a womans hand a man must knit a perfect hat, it must be so tightly knit that it holds water. The locals marry very young only with the blessing of the Shaman and there is no divorce. Life expectancy is around 75. There are no police, it is community justice involving lashings in public. The island was originally a penal colony, now owned by the islanders. The rules of society there are: 1- Don´t be lazy, 2- Don´t steal, 3- No dogs, 4- Don´t be a liar.
These beautiful people showed us their skills at weaving and knitting, did a traditional dance where the men acutally wear their wives hair like extensions, served us a delicious tea of coca leaves and mint and then opened up their small market of wares. The toques and mits and scarves were just beautiful and I picked up a special one for my friends daughter after trying it on Laura to be sure it would fit.
After this we wandered over the hill and down to a gorgeous sand beach. Many of us kicked off our shoes and waded in. It was cool but not too cold. We had so much fun just playing on the beach and one of the other group, a guy from Germany, stripped to his bikini briefs and went for a swim. He brazenly changed right there on the beach to much amusement. Nury had us take a picture together as she was all bundled up in a toque and scarf and gloves and I was in bare feet and a tank top. When we were done writing in the sand, posing for a group shot, etc we headed back to the boat.
From there we landed at Santa Maria for a very special feast, again a new thing for G. It was a family home of a Shaman and 13 (I think) families had together prepared a feast for us. There was a blessing and offering to Pacha Mama – Earth Mother. A man (Craig) and a woman from the group were brought up to be part of the ceremony and then the food was unearthed from the fire pit or Pacha Manka – Earth Pot. We were served a feast of chicken soup, trout, chicken, sweet potato, banana, lima beans and potatoes. This meal is traditionally used only for special ceremonies such as marriages and new years. These are foods and rituals from Inca times.
Back on to the boat and off to the floating islands of Uros which means shy as the Incans thought the people were hiding in the reeds due to shyness not fear. The island we landed on was called Titino which means Pumas. Here they worship Mama Cota (Sp) – Mother Lake. The Presidencia of the community, Deano, welcomed us and together with our guide as interpreter showed us how the islands are made. It really is amazing. These people have a life expectancey of only 50-55 years as their life is more sedentary. They are living on a living, floating raft that is smaller than a soccer field. The choice to live this way is mostly to honour their past but I cant help but wonder how long it will continue as the children move away. They were very generous and good hosts. Most of us paid 5 Sols to be taken for a ride on the reed raft being propelled by pole by the Presidencia Capitano Deano.
I can´t explain how we all felt leaving there. It was a powerful experience. We were treated to a Peruvian Libre (Pisco and Sprite) on the rest of the journey back to the wharf. a bus was waiting for us to make our way back to the hotel where we had a couple hours until we headed out for a dinner show at Balcones de Puno. The food was fabulous, as was the company and the entertainment and we were all in tears when Ruth got up and made a teary speech about us all helping her to have a wonderful trip she never thought she could do.
Celia and Nury and I wandered back together and here I am.
Tomorrow is our day to fly back to Lima and then people will begin leaving. It is hard to know we are going to lose the joy of our group as it feels as though we have all been together for a very long time with all that we have experienced.
MB in Puno
09.26.13
triumphgal 