I awoke with a sadness, perhaps even at heart the feeling attached to the word tattooed on my left forearm… saudades. The knowledge that this was our last day fully together as a group in this wonderful country hung like a rain cloud in an otherwise clear day. We gathered and loaded the bus to head for Juliaca where the airport was. As always it seems there were festivities in the square. I had once again tried to use my debit card to withdraw cash, this time at a Scotia Bank, and it worked. We all took the time to write messages to Nury on a big envelope into which we placed our tips for her time this past two weeks. This in itself was sadly dignifying that the end was nigh. We had our driver from the way up and he safely got us through the wild streets to the airport. From here we went through the Peruvian hand search of our checked bags looking for aerosols, and then hung about chatting and drinking Inka Cola (well,I tried it finally and it tastes like cream soda). The flight was uneventful, although I did finally get a window seat and it was spectacular scenery. This was when I was particularly melancholic.
Once back in Lima we made our way to the Hotel again and all (except Ruth who wanted to rest before her trip to the Nasca Lines tomorrow) decided to go for an early dinner before saying goodbye to Nury. She took us to a café where we took over the upper floor at one long table. After ordering our Happy Hour drinks and food we sat around chatting and I took the opportunity to present Nury with a very wee speech as I was too emotional and her envelope. She and I sat across the table from each other and had a great talk. I do so enjoy her and she was calling me her other Mommy. We had amazing food, I am bringing home the shells that were attached to the delicious scallops in my Tacu-Tacu. I admit the first meal we had of it at the gas station in the middle of no where was my favourite. It was hard for us to leave the dinner table as we knew both Celia and Dave would be gone when we awoke in the morning due to early flights home.
Nury gave us three options: To go wander and shop, to go back to the hotel and relax or to go to her home! Of course we almost all took option three. Nigel and Linda decided to go back to the Hotel. It was such an incredible surprise to be invited to her family home that I don’t think we were really aware at the moment what a treat we were in for. She haled several cabs for us, negotiating the price and sent us on our way to meet a gas station. It was fun and exciting and a wee daring to not even take an address or her cell with us and just trust the no English speaking driver to get us there. He had a picture of his two beautiful young children on the dash and I managed to find out they were 4 and 9 months old. When our car arrived at the station first and we were the third to leave we were a little nervous at first whether we were at the right place but everyone soon followed. We wandered off after Nury to a local market/liquor store. It was fun shopping for Pisco and entertaining the locals as this was definitely not a tourista area. After stocking up we followed her through a lovely neighbourhood complete with parking and no rebar sticking out of the roofs. Clearly these people pay taxes.
Nury’s Mommy was such a gracious host. It is so clear where her daughter got the infectious hearty laugh and big smile. She had seats and snacks for all and showed us the ceramic art she does. It was so beautiful and a shame that she didn’t have any to sell. We were mostly sitting around, still stunned about where we were I think when her (step)Poppy arrived. He had been out drinking with his friends and his expression when he opened the door was priceless! He was so kind and happy that we were there. They were both teachers, he a mathematician and she Geography and History. When they saw my tattoo Mommy said I had Peru in my heart and on my skin now. At one point as we were all getting nicely buzzed off cervesa and local sweet wines Poppy disappeared and came back out with an urn from pre-Incan times to show us. he placed it in Craigs hands who as it happens is an archaeologist. We were in awe as three times the treasures were brought out to show and be held. These pieces would be black market if sold but over the years they were gifts to the family and they will never let them out of Peru or their guardianship. We were all so aware of the preciousness of this moment and the trust this beautiful family had in this group of strangers. They not only welcomed us into their home but shared what they prize most, the 100o year old artifacts and their lovely daughter.
At last we had to leave and Nury shepherded her flock via taxi cabs back to the hotel. Once there it was if no one wanted to leave as it signified the beginning of the end. Nury and I had a teary moment together and then she was gone. Craig was so kind to give be a big comforting squeeze and a chuck on the chin. It was sweet and comforting.
When everyone disbursed I sat in Celias room and chatted for an hour or so before she had to leave.
I fell asleep well satisfied that this world is a wonderful loving place.
MB in Lima
09.27.13
triumphgal 