triumphgal

09-18-24 Tortoise & Snorkeling Day

September 20, 2024

There was a blackout for over 2 hours in the night. I know because of my CPAP machine. I was awakened when it suddenly stopped at 1:28 am. I got up and wandered out to the courtyard where it was surprisingly bright. I am told it was the moon through the clouds. I fell asleep again easily and was awoken by my machine blasting air from the night table just over two hours later. I wonder if it was due to the full moon eclipse?

I fell asleep last night trying to upload so continued trying to this morning. I am grateful that there is internet at all. I also didn’t notice last night that there is a heat pump with AC in our room which is a first on this trip and the place we need it the least lol. Tracey is the best roomie ever, not only didn’t she wake me while getting ready, she left me coffee while she went for a walk

It is a misty day and we are off to see the tortoises! Fabrizio loved my shirt that I brought from home and asked to take a picture. Little did I know it would be so perfectly suited for the Galapagos

We are at the tortoise rehabilitation centre. There are 11 different species of them in all

Reptiles, according to our guide, are the most primitive and least intelligent animals on earth. 30-40 years to sexual maturity. They were a source of food so the population was decimated. These are in a rehabilitation centre with hopes to procreate and release babies into the wild.

Babies up to 2 years:

2-5 years, then out into the wild:

As we were in the tortoise kindergarten, as he called it, another guide came with a group. I was standing where they came in and heard him say that here will be the babies and many gringos. I said, hey?! And on the way past him he said something about Latina and I said, no, Canadiano. He looked surprised, but I know that is a derogatory term.

Back to the hotel to ready for the afternoon and go for lunch. We found a great restaurant and then got our snorkeling gear, changed and caught the bus

We strolled down in the wind and I began to get antsy. The wind was strong and I did not feel it was a good idea for a group of novices mostly to go out with a single person. This was not something on our Exoticca itinerary so I must wonder if they knew.

I struggled with not being able to see clearly without my glasses, not having practiced with my phone in the pouch, and the tightness of my shortie suit. I was swept away from the group and made it mostly back to keep bobbing to the surface, filmed a bit of Jenny and then, accidentally caught my complete panic attack. Listening to it, I hear the bravado, the imaginary strength trying to overcome the moment

I was able to signal a couple that were walking by and they thought I was just waving until I swept my finger across my throat and asked for help. He took off his shoes and socks and came to give me a hand. I was unable to inhale deeply and managed to get Dave’s attention to unzip my suit as I couldn’t reach the pull at the back. It took a while to calm and breathe properly. I waited until Fabrizio was alone and suggested there should be someone on shore constantly counting heads, or more importantly that no one go out in that windward side. His response was that he told everyone to stick together. Yep, victim blaming. I was happy that that was our last experience with him and for the first time, I did not tip

Of course I was now fragile and tired. I was also very sad that that had happened as the sea is generally my happiest place. I was very embarrassed as I was the most experienced there as a scuba diver. David and Sharon were the most experienced at snorkeling and I was so happy that they took Hari by the hands and gave him a great experience. The guy who helped me was on our bus but I was still too shaken to introduce myself. Back at the hotel, Tracey gave me a hug and let me sob it out. We then showered up, and headed for the waterfront where we enjoyed a fabulous meal and beverages, even getting to sing to a 10 year old for her birthday. The debrief was just what I needed. On the way, we stopped at the dive shop to talk to David about what had happened, request a larger suit for me, and were reassured that it would be calm and safe. I also saw the couple from the beach and was able to thank Adrian.

09-17-24 Off to Isla San Cristobal

September 18, 2024

It was up at ungodly time this morning to ready ourselves to leave for the coast and beyond. I had a small breakfast in spite of not being hungry and then went out for fresh air. Carlos saw me and lit up. He came rushing over and hugged me and we had a pleasant kiss before he asked in Spanish if we could write. I said yes and he was very happy. That may not have been the best idea as he has now, through WhatsApp, declared that it was undying love at first sight!

When we got to the airport we were met by an Exoticca agent who took all our passports and $20 for the transit pass to go get our luggage tags and boarding passes. Meanwhile, we had our luggage scanned for banned items. I was a bit unnerved about giving up my passport to a stranger. I was also sad that David and Sharon were on another flight. I feel that our group should stay together.

After that it was through the baggage drop where mine came in 1 Kilo over. The lovely agent of Latam took me and had it put through without change or charge, thankfully.

Jane let me know that the time to wear a mask is while the plane is idling, once in the air, it is filtered. Thankfully I brought some. The A319 sounded like someone was chain winding up the landing gear and I just muttered, ‘Just keep flying, just keep flying’. I had a short nap when I tried to read.

I read my book and let myself feel the emotions of the pending moment. I was finally going to be in the place I have dreamed of seeing for 50ish years. And, to be honest, may have even shelved that idea. And now, here we are. Tracey had the window seat and I don’t think I hid my disappointment well. As we neared, still above the clouds, she traded seats with me. shame that we didn’t get to pick our seats as we are mid wing

They sprayed the cabin for contaminants and we had to complete a declaration of what we were bringing.

We landed and went through a pretty smooth customs that involved two booths and a dog and we each paid $200 US for our park pass. We were taken to Blue Marlin Hotel in Puerto Baquerizo

Our room is very nice and on the main floor which my knees and heavy bag appreciate.

We settled in, went for lunch down the block (where, incidentally, the lady sitting beside me on the plane was working) and then met with Fabrizio for our orientation and headed out for a walking tour with him. As a man who grew up here he is a fountain of information and stories.

Made from 1946 closed airforce base

Marine iguanas made me tear up as I have been waiting 50 years to see them IRL.

Sea Lions here are smaller than at home, and when I researched it seems these are smallest and our Stellars are largest of the species

Mann Beach

We sat for a few drinks, chatting, and that is when I found that several of the Brits are staying here, skipping Guayaquil due to a concern over their travel insurance being void if there should be civil unrest. It is sad that our group will change, but I am glad for those who are carrying on with us.

Tracey, Jenny and I took a ceviche cooking class. This dish is very different every where. It was delicious. Ceviche—- siriri / chiri —- fresh / fish

Ceviche Galapagos Recipe as typed by our translator Carlos

1 pound of tuna 

1 onion 

2 tomato’s

1 green pepper 

1 lime ( cup) 

1 orange (cup) 

Cut the tuna in small pieces , add half cup and 1 tablespoons of salt in a bowl. ( at least 25 minutes) 

Cut all the vegetables in small pieces and mix with lime and tablespoon of salt.

In the blender add the tomato  and the orange juice.

Mix together all the ingredients and enjoy with green plantain chips. 

Carlos and Sol

Manzanilla bit me. A lovely English speaking server I found at the nearest restaurant confirmed I would be ok and used alcohol to clean it for me.

I enjoyed wandering the streets safely, in & out of shops, seeing low tide, running into friends and chatting at the dive shop. I do wish I had brought my certification card but snorkeling will have to do

Hari came and had a visit in our room and we chatted over a drink of interesting alcohol that I bought. It smells like tequila but tastes a bit like brandy.

09-16-24 the Road to Otavalo

September 16, 2024

Up early to be ready to leave at 7 on the bus. All but 3 of us booked the extra excursion for the day.

It is a cooler day so far which I love. I am being drawn to the idea of being an expat

We stopped on the side of the road to try fruit that most loved. I did not. I do not love papaya, mango nor this chirimayo.

It is sweet to see Steve and Jo in their proper clothes. Their suitcases did not arrive with them and they were not aware that that could happen. They have bought souvenir t-shirts to get by to date. The cases were at the hotel when we arrived yesterday.

We went through an area that grows flowers. It is not uncommon to be able to buy 100 long stem roses for $5 US

The roses cross from one side to the other, being sorted to export and local dependent on how open they are. As roses grow toward the sun and they are growing near the equator, they can be up to 3 meters tall!

Mid morning stop for delicious coffee, bizconchos with caramel and cheese. There was a very talented musician who entertained us as well. I bought a big bag of roasted quinoa to bring home for only $3!

During our stop, Jane, from Jersey, asked me when I had lived in the states. I explained that I’d only lived in BC and she seemed surprised and said that I sounded like and my personality made me seem like one of them. I don’t know whether to laugh or cry. I am sure to take it as a compliment though. Santiago is from the highlands in Saraguro

Next stop was a national park with a crater lake where there was a small market. I purchased a lovely necklace and a whip for Sackboy.

Cotacachi Cayapas was fun, any time spent on the water makes my heart happy. The skipper Jose was awesome and asked for a picture with all of us. I find the temp in the high teens perfect today although others are finding it cool.

Cotacachi for lunch and shopping in the leather town

And then to Otavalo where there are many expats apparently.

After that lovely walk where I purchased a sweater that I had admired on Madhavi, we headed to a large square where there was an artisans market. I bought some gifts and some more kitchen tools and art. I am very exhausted, likely from the long day and the altitude

Cayambe Volcano, snow on the equator

We got back to the hotel in rush hour through the city itself and then said our goodbye to Santiago as he is not with us for the rest of the trip. I am already sad that. Carla will be gone when he drops us at the airport tomorrow.

We scurried up to the room and then dropped all of our stuff and came down for beverages and ordered some light food in the Globe Walker bar We have much to organize as we leave at 5:45 am for the plane to Isla San Cristobal!!

09-15-24 Centre of the World

September 15, 2024

While enjoying breakfast and most excellent coffee, I was being amused by Sharon trying to capture a picture of a hummingbird. I hadn’t thought about them not being in Northern Ireland where she and David are from.

We got our truck ride to the bus parked in town and got a nice visit with our guide, Santiago. He is 38 and has been doing guiding for 18 years as a freelancer.

Back at the bus we had to wait as Santiago‘s luggage was left behind. I was too stifled sitting at the back of the bus so got out for fresh air. Carlos, our driver saw me and hurried over to ask for my nombre to communicado with WhatsApp. No harm, I gave it to him.

Once we were on our way, I was thrilled to have been invited to sit with Leena up front. We shared about our lives. She is a realtor in Cambridge UK. I showed her a picture of my kids and she remarked how much Jake looks like her Hari.

Santiago shared a lot of good info. Internet is expensive. School for the locals, 90-95% go to primary, 50% to high school, 25-30% to university but a lack of jobs after graduation. Minimum wage is $450/month. AND, there really were tribes in Ecuador that cut the heads of their enemies off , removed the bones, simmered and reduced to the size of a fist and wore as a warning.

Had a good laugh at a memory of my trip to the UK as Santiago often says ‘we will be there in one hour’ which is what I would hear from Hearndens, everything was one hour away.

I have had the best visit with the Menon Family. I may have to go to Cambridge!

Quito means Centre of the World. Does that make it Middle Earth? Our first major stop is the Centre of the world monument

The one thing that I wanted to bring home was a new hammock and for $75 I got two gorgeous huge ones and a new jacket

I had a hilarious time at the top while filming and taking pictures as I didn’t notice at first that my dress was blowing straight up. I was wearing shorts but a beautiful man looked over, did the Marilyn pose and said ‘Don’t worry I didn’t see anything’

And then it was the hour bus ride back to the hotel where they delivered our bags to our beautiful room and then we went down for bevies

Sidebar: our driver, Carlos, has expressed his interest in me and he is lovely. We had good translator app conversations over lunch where he told me about himself and said I was beautiful. Shame we are on different continents.

While having drinks David and Sharon from Northern Ireland popped by and we invited them to join us at a recommended restaurant that was a $2 cab ride away. It was a bit of a sketchy entrance but after climbing all the stairs, found ourselves in a remarkable space with fabulous food and service. We had a great visit and were all glad to have made the effort, all for only $27 and tip for my seafood dish and drink.

09-14-24 Full Day in Amazon Rainforest

September 14, 2024

It is odd to experience 12 hours of day and night due to proximity to equator. Sun rise just after 6 and a quick sunset just after 6 pm again. Virginia told me to lose weight over breakfast. I promptly ignored the body shaming and replied that I’d lost 30 already, thank you. I know she was referring to keeping mobile, but really! We did have better conversations later in the day. After a good coffee and breakfast we headed on a vigorous forest walk up big hills and down again. Our guides filled us in on so much information and the only thing I loathed was the gumboots. I was very grateful to have the assistance of a bamboo walking stick. It was very sweaty but I drank lots of water.

Yana is our Spanish speaking guide. We managed a few stilted conversations on the bus ride to Ahuano.

Napo River

These trees stretch in different directions to reach the sun and rain. They compensate for growth in one direction by growing a ‘brace’

The most fun moment of the trip for me was when we were shown the blow dart gun. Yana showed us how, but missed. I went first out of our group and got the only bullseye!!

The people who live on the property made a yucca beverage and cacao dessert for us from scratch and then we shopped in their little market.

On the way back to the boat we fed the Caimans

Tracey found Eldorado Hold which the Spaniards had not managed to do.

It was so nice to get the gumboots off and have the breeze on the water. When we arrived back at Ahuaco, I was sad to find I’d lost an earring. Our bus driver, Carlos jumped up and searched until he found it down the side of my seat on the canoe. I gave him a big hug and my electronic mosquito repeller that had worked well for me. I could tell he was happy and crushing a little.

As we were eating, a White Puck snake, very poisonous, slithered through under our table which caused a bit of a stir. The cat was oblivious

Next, we were back in the bus and off on a mini safari, as Santiago called it.

And then it was time to head back to the lodge. I really like this family

After a nice cool shower and change into dresses, we joined the others for an incredible dinner. The company was great and soon it was time to settle our tabs and head to our rooms to ready for departure in the morning

09-13-24 Quito to Tena

September 13, 2024

Alarm at 7, pretty organized and down to an amazing breakfast before our orientation. I was happy that find our group is only 16. I will try to find out more but for now I know there are parents Krish and Lena with two grown children, Hari and Maddi from Cambridge, UK; Dave and Gail from Calgary; Jane and niece, Sarah from New Jersey; Jenny from Midlands UK, Steven and Jo from Near London, Virginia from Richmond UK, David & Sharon from Northrrn Ireland.

Just after 9 we checked out and loaded into a very comfortable bus to go to old town with our very informative guide, Santiago, and driver, Carlos. There was a lot to see and we started with the best gargoyle collection that I have ever seen. I bought Coca Candy.

Next was a chocolate tasting! Chocolatier says if you feel hot spice in the back of your throat it is real, in mouth, chemical

Presidential palace fenced off from previous unrest. Independence in 1809

So near to solstice on 23rd that I barely have a shadow.

I don’t know who this was, but I think we’d be friends

Of course, Groot is everywhere

A few more sites and we were back on our bus which we had to wait for in front of a candy store. I bought sharesies. Cookies for all and mints for $3

We are now winding our way out of Quito to the other side of the Andes, as we head for the Amazon. A quick stop at clean gas station banos. We took a quick cold windy stop to see the volcanos. I couldn’t even get Sackboy to c stand on the S. The eucalyptus trees are invasive here.

Lunch was preordered at Restaurant Gina. I enjoyed my traditional prepared Trout and plantains as well as the big Pilsner.

Compliments of the restaurant a chuchuguasa which was potent and delicious

We are now on our way to the Lodge in the Amazon, Hakuna Matata

We stopped at a food market where I sampled the roasted beetle larvae. I did not take a video of them squirming in the bowl. It was actually pretty delicious.

There was a stop for pictures at the top of the Andes along the road. It was cold and windy. We then wound our way down through the cloud forest to the rain forest.

We had to swap out to small vehicles as there was a tension bridge along the way to the lodge.

Our lodge is lovely and well equipped. We had awesome drinks and a fabulous 3 course meal before taking a night walk in the forest looking for critters

And now to read a little and get some solid sleep!!

09-12-24 From Ok to Awesome

September 13, 2024

Sleep was elusive as I no longer easily curl up on hard chairs for a nap. At 3 am the staff showed up and we were finally able to pass off our checked in bags. Security wasn’t open until 4 for screening and then 4:30 for CBSA. I thought it was weird that the Calgary airport is basically shutdown at night. At one count there were 5 women all crashed on joined chairs. and it was pouring rain!

We had the friendliest CBSA agent who told us we were going to love the Houston airport

We finally got seated in extremely cramped seats on a Boeing 737-700. It was old school to say the least.

The cloud formations over Houston were stunning

We had a good laugh as we wondered why they were handing us fun sized condoms as we boarded the plane.

Finally made it to the awesomeness of the George Bush Intercontinental Airport and Boy Howdy that agent was right! It is an incredible place.

Brett back at home recommended a seafood restaurant that he couldn’t remember the name of. In short order we found it and had an excellent experience. Janet and Sergio treated us special with a combination plate for me of seared scallops and calamari as well as a piece of alligator that is sourced from the same farm as Louis Vuitton for their bags. It was a piece of white tail meat, very delicious but marinated in many peppers hence my only trying one piece. Not inexpensive but worth every penny. I taught Sergio a couple new drinks and definitely enjoyed both my Sidecar and the watermelon and coconut hurricane

At the end of the meal, Nick came over to offer a free dessert. I chose the key lime pie to go with mmmmmmm

We sat for an hour in massage chairs and relaxed. It was wonderful. Finally it is time to get on another plane.

I sat next to a lovely lady with a tag around her neck that said her name, Genoveva, and, on the back, that she did not speak English with a number to contact if needed. I did not bad at all communicating and helping her. I’m not sure she totally understood that I don’t speak Spanish although I was able to throw a few words in.

I watched an odd movie, doses off and then ended the flight with Bob Marley One Love.

I have decided to blog as I go in draft form and then hit post when it is days and and hopefully on wifi.

We are getting ready to land in Quito and I have received notice of where to meet our shuttle.

Clearing customs was a breeze and we were met by a lovely young g man, Matteo who brought us the 40 minutes or so to our very nice hotel, Mercure. Quito is the second largest city in the country, coming in around 3 million. We are organizing a jump bag to take for our two nights in the Amazon after our city walking tour in the morning. The hotel will store our big suitcases.

I am going to bed after a fabulous shower as our orientation is at 8 where we will meet the other 14 in our group. Have to be down for breakfast before that.