triumphgal

The Steps, Oh the steps!

TriumphGal

September 20, 2013

This morning began a whole hour later, such a luxury. We met for breakfast, left our suitcases with the hotel in storage as we had packed our duffels and day packs with the necessities for the one night away and waited with anticipation as we knew we would have to hustle out to the street and quickly load the bus. Cusco is a very old city, the businesses do not have parking so the bus was to illegally stop and let us hop on. We had to be quick or he would get a ticket.

We met our tour guide for the next 4 or 5 days and he introduced us to Jorge (Horhay) who I now want to be my perminant driver as he can do amazing maneuvers with a very long bus on winding cobblestone steets. I am afraid our tour guide had a name that did not stick and I need to confirm it for tomorrow. I feel uncomfortable about this as he is an amzing local man who teaches and does this in his off time. I have finally found that Celia made sure to know it and his name is Adelki. Celia is special, she is gentle and kind and intelligent and I enjoy the moments we spend together

From Cuzco we headed up to take a peek at the ruins above the city, Saqsayhuaman, more commonly called Sexy Woman. We who are returning to Cusco have it as part of our tour on another day. The bus continued on some crazy winding roads through beautiful country sides and Adelki continued to share his culture with us. He is very gifted at doing so.

At one point we stopped along the road for a Kodak moment and saw a llama running up the curvy road with its rope trailing behind. Plodding up behind it was a beautifully traditionally dressed woman.

The first major stop made was at a village that is supported by G tours. The people there are so welcoming and receptive to photos without cost, they seem to love to share what they do. It is basically a village of women who weave and knit alpaca. The patterns are beautiful and the colours varied. Some are coarse, some soft. We were shown how they weave, what natural products are used for dyes and then allowed only 20 minutes to shop around the circle of stalls of all their wares. I managed to pick up a few things for me, fun things for the grandsons and daughter. I of course also had to buy a LLama with a blue saddle and bubble gum pink accents to live in my Miata (aka Audrey). I had a lovely attempt to converse in different languages with a gentleman doing mason work in the square. I told him I had been a builder and he did fine work and he asked if I built in Australia…. seems I have not got a Canadian accent.

When we left we were all a bit peckish after all that spending so we stopped at a personal home/bakery called Pumachayoq. We had hot out of the clay oven Empanadas, they were delicious. It was here that we also learned about the southern cross, the bulls on the roof (a blessing for strength and safety) and that our driver was incredible at navigating the streets.

Jorge proved he was macho by staring down a car followed by a bus as we wound our way up to the archeological site of Pisac. We hiked around learning so much about the incan empire from our guide and then he challenged those taking the Incan Trail to take the stairs to the top. CA, C&W, Dave and I all did it too. It was not easy in the thin air but it sure felt like we had accomplished something getting there. We worked our way back down and to the banos when I had a weird allergic reaction to something and had to take a Reactin when I got on the bus. Oh and this may be TMI, but that was the first stand and hover hole I have ever had to use. What a trip!

I am so enjoying sitting beside Celia this day on the bus. I feel the love from her soul and am so grateful to have met her.

We stopped next for an unbelievable buffet (which all the locals say with a hard T which amuses me) in a gazebo beside alpaca and llamas with pan flute music playing in the background. So peaceful that when we got back on the bus I just felt like sleeping. It seems I have gotten a rep for shopping and possibly, drinking. I have managed to find wee gifts and souvenirs just about everywhere… hey, I am supporting the local economy!

Next we bussed to Ollantaytambo and on the way our guide told us of the story of his family. They were fairly well off actually probably well off by the local standards as they owned a great deal of land. Land means food and food means wealth in this culture. In 1974 the socialist government knocked on the door, told his dad to get every one in the truck and they were taken to the town square and told bye bye, good luck. Left with the clothes on their backs! This is a society of survivors, constantly being conquered or overtaken and yet continuing to thrive and love in this land. There is mandatory education, with nearly zero illiteracy, everyone works as is necessary and the people are kind and welcoming.

This stop began challenging for me as I had recently taken an antiallergen pill and had been drinking a lot of water. the tour started off and I detoured. When I caught up with Nury and Ruth they were on the first layer of the terraces up the mountain. I felt like staying with them but decided to give it try. I stepped into the flow of people on their way up and simply counted 1, 2, 3 as I worked at controlling my breathing through my nose. The next thing I knew after a few rest stops and brething fairly heavily I caught up to the group. As I arrived he was describing to the Inca Trailk group to count the steps 1, 2, 3 in their heads and breath through their noses!

We continued on to the top , stopping to hear what each feature was. This settlement was never lived in as the Incas were still building when the Spanish were approaching so the fled, away from them so as not to draw them towards Machu Picchu. There are still huge stones lying along the way to the settlement that are now called lazy stones as they never made it to the terraces.

There was just so much about this experience. I truely feel as though I have done a mini Incan Trail and in my Peruvian walking shoes !

It was strange variable weather all day from rain to wind to sun.

I was so exhausted by this point I was grateful for the short stop at a market for snacks and then on our way to the hotel. It is beautiful and well supplied, Hotel San Augustin Urutamba. I of course am glad for a nice bed, wifi and a shower.

CA and I met C&W and Ruth for dinner of soup, well actually I had dessert crepes and a lovely man from Texas gave us the remainder of a bottle of red which I am the only one who will drink it, shame about that.

The place seems well equipped but the pool table is missing 5 balls and tips on the cues, the waiter cannot speak English at all… but I have been enjoying my glass of red at a computer spot.

I believe that completes this day as we have said good bye and good luck to our dear companions who leave before we get up in the morning to challenge the Inca Trail while the remainder have other plans.

Just as an addendum to yesterday I forgot about the complete horror of loading on the boat in the jungle to leave, setting down my Starbucks to go cup on the bow, turning to take a picture and the next thing we hit a bump and my precious coffee pours its way down the boat under everyones feet on my side who also have to lift their packs to avoid the catastrophe.

I must explain that I have been travelling with my sons refillable cup that looks like a regular disposable. It has been good for amusement asI seem to be having starbucks in the jungle and many other strange times and places.

I did offer my apologies and to clean the boat but Elvis said he would tell the driver I did it on purpose.

Now it is only 930 pm and I am ready to fall asleep so I must away…

MB in Uruwamba

09/19/13

Cusco is calling

TriumphGal

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September 19, 2013

We were able to sleep in until after 6 this morning! It stormed most of the night, they say but I slept through most of it. I feel so blessed for the timing of it all. We all packed our duffel bags and met for breakfast where we also arranged for two envelopes that we were able to put what we wanted into for the two guides Elvis and Jose. I wrote

7 Yanks, 6 Canucks and 4 Brits thank you very much

on the envelope as the guys have some pretty good schtick about the stereotypes. All in good fun though and I am sure they see a lot of typical responses.

It was a bleak day but at least not raining. Some found it very cold but it was a Bella Bella kind of day and I was sporting my jacket from there so was all good. We waved farewell and CA and I got the front seats again as they were the most windy. I did not mind a bit. Rather than stopping part way and taking a bus we took the boat all the way to Puerto Moldonado as the road had washed out in the storm and was impassable. I sat and watched the greenery go by, took a few more pictures and wrote notes for my blog of the last few days without wifi. When we arrived I was glad we had come that way as their port is very quaint and after climbing up the muddy bank we made it to the bus. It took us through more of the town than we had seen and we were told that all the motorcycles racing around with the driver in a helmet and not the passenger were taxis! Most of them were Hondas but there were a few brands I did not recognize which Jose said were from China. He said the tattoo of my bike on my arm was my Tuk tuk, a very popular form of ride around there. I enjoyed how much he giggled at calling my triumph that.

Nury’s fave

The captain is cold

roads were washed out

We stopped at the office, repacked from our loaner duffels to our suitcases, filled out a customer satisfaction survey, said our good byes to Elvis and headed to the airport. Once there our bags were each checked by hand, looking for alcohol or aerosols. I had neither but he did look puzzled at my empty beer bottle wrapped in happy face tissue. Once the bags were checked we were able to purchase some snacks to bring along and I grabbed some local Brazil nuts, plantain chips, a powerade and a can of beer. this was in a plastic bag and I was able to bring it through the security screening no problem, even cracked it on the plane.

Colin, Elvis and Wendy

Security

This was fine to bring

Christopher

Cusco

I really am enjoying getting the chance to sit beside a different person each time we travel, getting to know them better. Linda from Kent was my seat mate today and I think she is adorable, reminds me of Dame Judy.

Upon landing in Cusco we loaded our bags into one van and jumped in another to be brought to our hotel. Cusco is like night and day to Lima. It is so beautiful and lively and safe. We checked in, dropped our stuff, met in the lobby to send out our laundry and then walked up to the main square for a dinner with a stunning view. I and a few of my mates decided was would have Guinea Pig and others tried Alpaca. I cannot describe what I thought when they set that plate in front of me. It was quite literally a quartered Guinea Pig. I even got one with four teeth!!!!!! I was told not to try to eat the skin as it was tough and there was not much meat on it but I did try it and will not again. After dinner we had some free time before a 7 o’clock meeting to discuss the itinerary for the next few days. I stepped out of the restaurant to spot a shoe store, well cubicle really across the cobblestone alley. It was chock a clock with colourful handmade sneakers, walking boots and knee high boots. I could not resist and got a pair for only $29 US sold to me by the cobbler himself!

Next thing we went to a tattoo shop where I met the artist and made a plan but could not commit to a time as I needed to attend the meeting first. I told him I would return later. Back down we came, oh it is all up or down here on beautiful cobblestone streets.

Ok here’s the plan

The safe street

Cusco

White Christ on the hill

EEKKKKK!

Cuy

At the meeting which was split into two groups, those doing the train and those doing the train we learned what our next 5 days look like. To our wonderful surprise, those of us not doing the trail will get to purchase for $50 Cdn and extra day on Machu Picchu. As well and extra train ticket for 30 Sols. I can not believe this has happened but it is because of the train schedule they have made it possible.

I feel sorry for the trail tribe as they have to fit all their gear in a duffel with a very specific weight allowing only 2.5 Kg of clothing and personal items as the porters have to pack it for them. The rest has to go in the packs on their backs. they spent most of the evening weighing bags and removing items.

I went back to book my tattoo for Friday night at 7 and bought a beautiful Peruvian patterned duffel bag as we will need it for tomorrows overnight in the Sacred Valley and then the nights at Agua Calientes aka Machu Picchu town.

This is where I bought my boots, and a few others bought shoes

I don’t think C-A wants a tattoo

Full Moon over Cusco

Cusco at night

Machu Picchu Squadron!

The rest of my evening I have been posting blogs from the lobby which were typed as notes on my iPad, hearing good news from my daughters and wondering how my boy is doing.

I feel like such a dork but this is the best trip ever and there is still a week and a half to go!

MB in Cusco

09.18.13

PS I have had to write this and the previous two with the least punctuation including apostrophes as I can not find them on this Spanish computer. It was a trip just finding out Alt Q is the @ symbol to log in to Facebook!

it’s not the heat, it’s the humanity

TriumphGal

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September 19, 2013

Quarter after 5 awake again after an amazing sleep and then a breakfast of eggs and bacon and fruit, oh the fruit! It was nice to see the site in the daylight for the first time. I found it challenging to dress covered from head to toe for our morning hike through the jungle. After a short boat ride we met at the top of another crazy set of stairs where we tucked our pants into our socks so no creepy crawlies would go up them, split into two groups and headed off. Our group, Chris and Ruth, Mike and Colleen, CA, Dave and I was lead by Jose. Celia and Ruth stayed back at the lodge as Ruth did not feel up to the challenge and poor Celia did not love the humidity of the jungle. The rest followed Elvis. I must add that although at moments some extremely questionable things may come out of her mouth I find Ruth to be really something. A 70 year old widow who has been on many adventures around the world and wanted to see Peru is admirable in my books.

complete with coffee in my son’s Starbuck cup

7 Americans 4 Brits 6 Canadians

Our jungle guide

Our hike rambled through the jungle for several Kilometers with many stops for nature talks and entertainment a la Jose. We saw a crested owl (yes and owl in the jungle), lizards, my house plants on steroids, massive Kapok and Strangle Fig trees, and the craziest ant colony I have ever seen.There were ant freeways trodden into the ground with traffic plodding perfectly spaced down a tree and many meters up a hill, each little vehicle transporting a piece of leaf a half centimeter squarish sized standing up like a wee green sail. In the HOV lane the emptied vehicles scurried haphazardly back for another load. We came upon a tree with bright green leaves that when torn smelled like a freshly mowed lawn. Jose mushed them in his fingers and they produced a red berry like juice which he used to paint each woman’s face as a Queen or Jaguar. Eventually it washed off in the shower.

Our tribes merged again after what felt like half a day to find it was only 10 o’clock! There were few bugs along the trek except when sitting near shore on the lake we crossed to go to the huge Strangle Fig tree. Once there we were challenged to fit all 15 of us inside. I went first and tucked into a root alcove with a root blocking me from the center area. As the others began to fill the space I felt something banging its way up my left leg. I dared not scream, nor look down, and suddenly up past my left ear flew a fruit bat. Everyone oohed and aahed and took pictures having no idea quite how horrified I had been for a moment. We did get all of us inside and Jose clambered his was to a point above to take photos. Apparently this is not usually done. I do suspect his fart jokes are a running gag though.

After that it was back to the lake raft which has quite a propelling system, a sort of oar and tiller combined which swivels on a simple wooden pivot point. This is kept lubricated with lake water from a bucket. It is maneuvered by a singe person. I tried it and can see the simplicity and good exercise value in it. We ate crackers and Grenadilla fruit aka Monkey Brains. It looked very unappealing, the texture was similar to Lychee with watermelon sized seeds filling it, all wrapped in a very thick skin. Would never be my go to fruit but it was refreshing….. desperate times, my friends.

While sitting there we dropped broken crackers into the water to see the piranha frenzy, well fuss, really. Cool though.Upon returning to shore the first of us off the raft saw the take down of a good sized frog by a Coral snake. Now that was nature in action! And i of course had a camera and cell with dead batteries. (at the lodge the charging station is only on for a few hours after dark when the power is turned on for the dining hall and bar)

We hiked back through to the riverboat and made way to camp. The stairs do seem to be getting easier now even as the heat purges my body of hydration. It is so humid though, no Chapstick necessary, double the deodorant! I think the locals really understand the effects of the heat on the touristas. There seems to be a pattern of movement and rest, hot and less hot, exertions and relaxation (in the bar or swimming hole). As well there is a noticeable gap before meals so that we are cooled down, cleaned up , ready for fuel and good company…. oh and Cervesa! The wine comes by the bottle only and thoe who want to indulge have paired up while Colin and I have enjoyed the Cusqueña Premium beer (I am bringing home a souvenir empty for the cool bottle and label) and the rum and cokes with ice (so far no ill effects).

While many went to the swimming hole or relaxed for the afternoon Jim and Lynda, Colleen and I went with Jose to the farm across the river which G owns and gets much of its fresh produce from. There are pigs and we saw a vulture, a macaw and a couple parrots, chickens and a monkey running in the trees overhead. It was fascinating to me to see the plants of so many familiar foods such as avocado (they miscarry and drop the bad fruit, it is never eaten off the ground), papaya, banana, plantains, bell peppers, custard fruit (ugly and so delicious), Noni (strange looking and tastes like the strongest of blue cheese, also known as vomit fruit), pineapple and the herbs, basil and lemon grass. The lemons were the biggest, like a huge orange.

The dreaded Bell Pepper in it’s natural habitat

locals don’t eat the nut but the fruit

so nummy inside

the one’s Jim ate whole!

Jose prepares samples

Tastes like really strong blue cheese

We were to meet at the bar at 6 to listen to a talk on gators of all kinds and then go for a one hour boat ride to search for Cayman in the dark before dinner. At the exact time Elvis started his talk the sky opened up and started pouring rain. It was loud and amazing. We sat and ate plantain chips (nummy) and waited until he and the pilot of the riverboat felt the rain was passing and we could go. We were wearing our raincoats though. Good thing! We headed out and were watching the lightening in the distance. Not far along Elvis spotted a Cayman in the water along the shore and pointed his spot light at it so we could take pictures. Then everything happened at once. We bottomed out, stuck in the mud, the sky opened up again and the storm was now right over top with loud thunder and bright lightening. As a few got the boat unstuck others of us put down the plastic walls and we waited. the pilot did an amazing job getting us back to the other shore and then reversed up the river to the dock where we all trudged up the sodden stairs. It was awesomely exciting. That was what I imagined the Amazon to be like. At no time did I fear for our safety but I know some did. I do believe it bonded us, once and for all.

being very brave

the terror of tambopata

our ‘fearless?’ leader

and thunder and lightening

Ruthie and Linda

Dinner was once again delicious and we sat outside chatting for some time before calling it a night.

MB in the jungle

09.17.13

Tambopata or bust!

TriumphGal

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September 19, 2013

Up at quarter after 5, a quick breakfast of a very tasty maize pancake and once again coffee that even I watered down. We loaded all our gear and selves onto a private bus and headed to the airport. About a Km away I realized my camera had been left behind. I remained calm and simply asked that our CEO Nury call the hotel and have them put it aside for me as I would be returning the last night of the tour. It would have been easy to get cranky about this as I have a wee Canon that basically if I can see what it is, I can zoom in on it which I wanted especially for the Amazon. I chose to just go with the flow and as it happens C / W had an extra one they lent me.

At the airport we got in line to check in our bags and then got in a huge long line to go through security. There was much fun with strangers in the line as many of us recognized it felt much like Disneyland. I had to take off my belt and all but we all got through with no problem at all and sat in the waiting room until our shuttle to the plane. It was a great opportunity to get to know The Others even better.

The plane trip had a stop in Cusco and unfortunately none of us had window seats. There were moments of great turbulence and a door even flew open depositing trays of china on the floor, leading to a cup handle scurrying down the aisle.

During the stop in Cusco I handed around a birthday card for CA so that everyone could sign it. She, however, would not turn around and sit down so it made the whole endeavor very challenging and Dave resorted to covert actions.

Once we landed in Puerto Moldonado I tried to get several employees to hold a paper for me for a picture but finally Nury did it. CA and I were the first ones out and the greeting from the taxi drivers was intense as they kindly offered us a ride. Eventually our driver, Elvis found us. By now I was feeling pretty special given we had been transported by two Kings.

We all boarded our tour bus with our bags on top and headed for the GAdventures office. As it happened Elvis was not our driver but rather our tour guide for this part of the stay. He filled us in on much and told us what to expect all with a charming accent, good grasp of English and much joking. When we reached the office we were each given a numbered duffel bag which we were to pack with only the stuff to take to the jungle and the rest would be locked up. Wendy traded me her number 13 for my 11!

Back on the bus and through a poor shanty town on military land we worked our way to the river. The main method of transportation seems to be motorcycles. I saw whole families on one.

The Others!!!

We arrived at the port where we had time to use the banos, I bought deodorant and coated in Muskol.

May be the best meal ever!

We loaded on board a river boat with CA and I in the front seats, and began our journey to the lodge which took several hours. Along the way we saw much flora, birds, termite nests, a beautiful cayman and a family of capybara. At our check station we all had to climb crazy steps up to a thatch building to sign into the reserve and got a beautiful leopard stamp in our passports.

loading up

Elvis & Jim

Carol-Ann

Passport Stamp!

Chris & Ruthie

Linda, Nigel & Dave

Peru and Canada – matchy matchy

weaving birds

Back on the River

Ruth makes the decent

Lunch is served

Elvis with a message

lunch!

cayman

capybara

It was so emotional to realize where we were! We were served a beautiful lunch in an old fashioned metal dish with lid. It was possibly the best meal I have ever had just due to the setting.

Finally we arrived in the dark and once again hiked up steep steps with bottle cap treads to the Lodge.

We were given our room keys, briefed on the evenings events and sent to shower and settle. The rooms are beautiful with bamboo walls, tile floors and thatched roofs. Mosquito nets hang over the beds. I took a purposefully cold shower and changed for the evening. Afterward we met at the bar, grabbed a Cervesa which only came LARGE and headed on a guided tour in the dark of the jungle. We saw a Bamboo Rat over our heads, many spiders of all sizes, a tarantula and a vine snake among other things. This was lead by Elvis and our second guide the naughty and delightful Jose. The part that actually made me teary was the beauty of the fireflies. I now understand why people believe in Faeries.

Tarantula!

Not taking any chances!

Dinner followed the walk and it was a delicious buffet with fresh local ingredients and talk of the next days plans. This was accompanied by another Cervesa of the supersized Peruvian beer which I very much like in this humidity. After dinner I was able to get the final signatures in the card including our three guides, purchased a locally made bracelet which was beautifully wrapped in paper from the barmaids booklet and held with staples. This was placed inside the zip lock bag of granola bars I scooped from the seat pocket on the plane when CA forgot it there. Wendy had smuggled it past her for me. Nury had arranged a beautiful cake with star fruit decorations and we used a big taper as I could not find the cake candles I had brought all the way from home. We all sang and she was much pleased, after all she had had the best 57th imaginable!

Returning to the room we tucked in for the night as morning was to come early and I will say I am ready to sleep well even with the heat and humidity. Of course I feel like a Princess sleeping under the net.

One of the stranger things I have experienced in my life was the side effect of the altitude sickness pills. I seem to be the only one as well, although I am not sure if any of The Others are taking them. It begins with a tingling in my lips which quickly spreads along my jaw and down my spine or across my shoulders. Feels as though all the blood is rushing away. I suppose it may be similar to a near faint but it is very trippy and yes I mean in a narcotic sense. It happened several times in the morning after taking my first half pill and seemed more often when we were going up and down in the airplane. After the second dose in the evening it also happened but only once.

My only frustration was having forgotten my camera. I have spare batteries, card and all…..sigh

MB on the Tambopata

09.16.13

Stepping Back 5000 years…… And then there were 18!

TriumphGal

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September 16, 2013

Good thing the excitement for today overruled the agony of the alarm going off as we had to meet for breakfast at 6 and be ready for our tour at 7 in order to get back in time to attend the meeting for the start of our tour and meet our fellow travelers.

We ceremonially began taking our Malarone (anti-malaria) pills together over eggs and bacon and the strongest cup of coffee I have ever had in my life. Hustling out we all loaded into the van with our new driver, Jesus (yes we were in good hands) and quickly were set straight that our tour guides name was in fact not Fernando but Orlando much to his and our amusement. The drive was about three hours to get to the site at Caral with a pit stop at a gas station about half way. I unfortunately was suffering terribly from something I had eaten the night before and barely managed to contain the contents of my system in all ways. I was grateful for 2 Litres of water, interesting scenery, the most awesome radio station ranging from Bobby Goldsboro to The Police and the company of people who were quickly becoming even better friends.

Dave, Colin, Wendy, Carol-Ann and my eye

Strange play area….

I did find the drive though the city and outskirts somewhat depressing as the standard of living seems so different to ours and the government is too busy fighting poverty and crime to worry much about the environment.there seems to be a campaign of awareness but it was so unlike home. When I post pictures you will see why I believe the Peruvian people to be very hardy… They have to scrape a living from a mostly unforgiving landscape. There are 10 million people in Lima!

FUN FACT: the traffic police force is purposely composed of over 80% women as it is felt they are stricter about enforcing the laws and are not easily bribed.

we so got told we weren’t supposed to sit there

It is hard for me to keep it short when I speak of Caral and it’s pyramids as it was truly amazing. It is the second oldest civilization on the planet after Macedonia and was discovered by a female archaeologist in 1995 I seem to remember. If you are at all interested in this I suggest you Google it and I will put up many pictures with stories when I am able.

cow crossing

crossing the river

centre of the settlement, I see a face

still being excavated

paprika

we even wore him out

on our return we once again stopped at the unassuming gas station which turned out to be a very charming restaurant with excellent food and service. I tried Tacu-Tacu con Pelado (sp) and it is my go to dish here now: a mixture of maize and black beans prepared with fish.

taku-taku

I think there is no way to describe the traffic or should I say the crazy driving here. If you have not driven in a place like this it would be hard to imagine. I was sitting behind the driver who regularly had it up to 140 Km passing on no passing zones, never used a signal, lane split, raced in the fog, etc and I had to just trust that we would get to our destination in one piece and hope I wasn’t completely grey when we got there!

We made it back in time for our meeting and said good-bye to our guide and driver with big hugs and thanks as many laughs were shared and much was learned from them. The important lesson of the day was that Colin was using the Spanish word for butt instead of little when asked if he spoke Spanish!!!

At 6 pm we gathered with ‘The Others’ who had arrived in our absence. Our CEO Nury is a wonderful Peruvian woman with a great sense of humour. There are 11 more group members, Nigel and Linda from Kent, UK, Ruth and Chris from Manchester, UK, and a group of 7: Craig & Lorraine,, Jim & Lynda, Celia, Mike & Colleen from Portland, California, New Mexico, and maybe somewhere else, come on I have done blooming amazing remembering all that!!!

We all laughed and got through an ice breaker, were briefed on the mornings adventure down the Amazon into the jungle and decided to go for dinner together. We went to a lovely cafe style restaurant on the edge of Kennedy Park where we could chat and bond. I tried Peruvian Cebiche (yes that is how they spell it) for the first time, what a treat! Oh and that reminds me of the snafu of the day. I had requested to be signed up for Ceviche cooking classes, one in Cusco and one in Lima on the last day but when we returned today we heard we had missed our class. C-A got on it and Nury is looking into it.

I lead some of the new people into the market in the park and Carol-Ann and I ended up haggling for a deal of two woven sweaters. We then made our way back to get packed up as we leave again at 7 am for the airport.

I don’t think I will have connection again for a few days but will be back with tales to tell ASAP!

MB in bed in Lima

09/15/13

Late night addendum

TriumphGal

1 comment

September 15, 2013

I apologize for the spelling errors and abrupt ending to the last post. I am attempting all this on an ancient iPad and borrowed wireless keyboard which seems to like to duplicate or drop entries willy nilly and then I managed to post without correcting…Argh. I have to get up in 5 hours so I will wrap this evening with this… I am sitting at a marble bar in the lobby of a lovely hotel in Lima having enjoyed a Cuba Libra by my new buddy and fab bartender Daniel. I am overwhelmed with all this day has given us and there are still so many more adventures to come!

Good-night xo

MB in Miraflores

09/14/13

And then there were 6!

TriumphGal

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September 15, 2013

This day began for me at 12:15 am when we boarded the plane from LAX. I was fortunate to find myself in a window seat sitting next to a 23 year old Brazilian electrical engineer who was on his way home from schooling at Waterloo. João was such a treat; so smart, funny and engaging that the time flew by quickly and not much sleep was had before it was morning and we were doing the countdown to landing in Lima.

I must say that except for the incredible lack of legroom (and that is saying a lot coming from short me) LAN is a fantastic airline. Two great meals, free beverages, high tech TV/video game players in the back of every seat, friendly staff and even an outlet to charge phones etc between the seats. I enjoyed the fact that I was given Spanish forms to complete for Customs.

We’ve landed in Lima

Upon landing I will admit to being disappointed by the bleak wasteland surrounding the airport. We were able to easily get through Customs and wind our way to see our names on a sign held up by a driver although mine was Marnee Bellance . It was a foggy day and he was not convinced it would burn off. Our Welcome

We aren’t in Canada any more!

Walter, our Gdriver was amazing as he wound his way through crazy, no I mean insane traffic due to a huge music festival that was occurring along our route. The route did take us through a variety of neighbourhoods and along the beach which seemed to be under construction to our hotel Antigua Milaflores. We were met with seeming surprise as there did not seem to be a booking in place for our early arrival. The ladies at the desk quickly found us lovely room s and we settled in. C-A and I have room 313, and everyone laughed as I am digging the 13s on this trip..

We all cleaned up and changed and met in the lobby where Dave finally joined us. He had been working in Toronto and flew down from there. Much discussion was had over beverages about what to do with our day and a half before the tour officially started. A call was made and we set up two private tours, one for tonight and one for Sunday. I had struck up a conversation with a man in the lobby bar over Pisco Sours (my new fave) and he gave great local advice as he works in Lima and stays here often.

It was his idea we should go to Caral which we are doing tomorrow and he told us all about tipping etc. Apparently the locals do not expect tips but if you have great service you should but no more than 10% and never tip a cabbie as they already pad the price.

R had wanted to fly over the Nazca Lines but the guy at the bar said we would enjoy tomorrows trip much more and it would cost much less.

Once we decided where we were going and paid the operator (who smelled really good, btw) we left on foot to see John F Kennedy Park having been told we could find money changers and artists there. It was true. There are people on the streets in blue vests with city emblems and carrying licenses who simply change your US for Sols or break down the big bills. Seemed sketchy but that is what the guy at the bar told us to do. The park was like a stretch of the Saturday market on Salt Spring with jewelrey and knit/woven articles, etc as well as a huge section of painters and their work for sale. As well there was an art installation of humourous paintings about saving electricity. On the walk back, just past the Starbucks where CA found her local mugs, W & I were discussing how much fun it was to travel in a group of 6. We were caustious but fearless and having fun, interacting often with the locals as well.

I had read about a water park and really wanted to go there. We arranged a private driver, Evil (SP) and van to take us to the park, and a guide, Fernando to lead us around. It was so wonderful! Turns out it is the largest in the world according Guiness complete with laser show,, interactive displays etc all in the middle of a capital city in a desert which gets 2 inches of rain per year! Oh and it had exactly ….13 displays!

From there we were brought to The Doma Juana restaurant where there was a huge buffet of strange and wonderful foods and a floor show of traditional dances and entertainment. I have an allergy to bell peppers and that made the evening more of a Russian roulette at the buffet table. My favorite was the maize dessert which was similar to tapioca and pudding mixed together.

We are in Miraflores

message posted in hotel window.

Friday the 13th and all is well…..

TriumphGal

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September 14, 2013

The day began with no alarm clock, my system eager to get rolling. I had much to do having packed only the night before. After a short amount of sleep I emptied my bag, removed 1/3 of the clothing from the pile and repacked. The decision was made to take less, buy what I need. May as well support the local economy!

Mom arrived to gather copies of all my important documents , slip me a $100 and run through the list of things not to forget. In the mean time C&W were journeying by ferry and bus from Vancouver Island to meet CA and I at the airport.

Mom drove us to YVR and at the moment that I locked my apartment door leaving my daytimer on the table I was officially on Vacation!!

We arrived under a cloak of giddy excitement with CA finally getting to meet C&W whom she had spoken to many times as she is not only my friend but our travel agent.

Sparkling beverage in hand we meet at YVR

We had much standing in line but were there so early that we had time to hang in the Canuck Bar & Grill for a great chat as well as nummy food and bevies. And suddenly it was time to head for the gate.

We flew Alaska Airlines to LAX. And found ourselves chatting with strangers at every turn. There were few suits amongst us and it seemed everyone wanted to share where they we’re going and hear about our plans. CA and I sat beside a woman from Naramata who has lived many interesting places and has resided in Australia for over15 years. We swapped email.

As our flight crew member was beginning his safety speech he got the giggles. This was infectious and a great way to start the trip. As we deplaned in LA we were finally 5 altogether as Ruth is with us now. It was a wee challenging to find out where to go for our connection but a quick stop at the duty free and then an even quicker body scan got us to the gate at Tom Bradley International Departures.

Colin, Wendy, Carol-Ann, Ruth and I!

And here we sit in a wifi spot getting to know each other a bit more before our red eye to Lima. None of us got seats together, even C&W but that may be why we got such a good deal. Of course I don’t care, We are waking up in Peru!!!!!!!!!!!

Only wish I could figure out how to upload pictures on here from my iPad but will do so when I get on a ‘real’ computer.

MB in LAX

09/13/13

Quest of the Gods: A journey 40 years in the making

TriumphGal

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September 13, 2013

the trip became reality when the flight was booked

Tomorrow, Friday the 13th of September is departure day. My bag is packed, the table is covered with stuff to carry in my backpack and I seem to be immobilized. By what… Excitement? Fear? Disbelief?

Truthfully, all of the above. I can honestly say I have not anticipated anything more in my life. I am far more excited than if I had been a kid awaiting Disneyland, and am finding it hard to believe the moment is truly here. I fear at some level that it will not live up to all the buildup.

When I was in Grade 4/5, around 10 years old I saw a picture of Machu Picchu and told my teacher, Mrs Atcheson (sp?) that I wanted to go there when I grew up. I don’t know if it was past life recognition or just something awe inspiring but it left me with a brain scar. I have always thought that if I won a round trip to anywhere that is where I would go.

Occasionally I have considered going but was either too poor or with someone that I felt may ruin it for me. I did not want to be worried about anyone else’s good time.

It was last summer as I was on a long motorcycle trip that I realized I was turning 50 in 2013 and that had to be the year. I wanted to book right away in faith that the Mayans were wrong.

It was brought to my attention by my friend Sherry that a mutual friend of ours had a similar yearning to knock this one off the bucket list and so the planning began. As Carol-Ann is a travel agent I was thrilled to learn she was interested in travelling with the same tour group, G Adventures, that I had been following for years. We set the date, and started recruiting. Next to join was our mutual friend Dave and then a client of CAs, Ruth. At dinner before the Oprah Show in Vancouver I asked my old friends Colin & Wendy to come along. They decided that was the perfect way to celebrate their 30th anniversary.

I was also thrilled to learn that my dear friend Lynda would be able to come only to find out the tour was fully booked. I will always smile at her response that she would just have to fly down and ride a bicycle along side the bus to join us. For now though she will follow online.

Over the months we have booked the trip, made our plans, and I booked 4 of our airfares as I was able to find the best deals on Skyscanner. Mostly though, I have worked and worked and worked to get the time off. This made it impossible to dwell on the pending departure until today! When I finally signed off, set the out of office assistant on my email and changed the message on my phone I was very emotional.

I am about to have my number one, make a wish, top of the bucket list dream come true. The strange thing is that although I have done some research, I really have no expectations. I am looking forward to whatever comes our way and whomever we meet.

And now I must sleep for tomorrow the Quest begins

MB from New West

09/12/13

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